In Conclusion...

AMANDA HIGGINS - HICKORY, NC - The fact that this is our final blog post has become somewhat bittersweet to me. Although there were nights when all I wanted was to forget about it, the blog became another one of our traveling companions. At times, it stayed in better touch than we did. Claudia Eller told me on the trip that when she hadn't had cell phone service, her kids looked at the blog and knew she, and husband Richard, were okay. When I stepped off the van, a few people told me that it was nice to keep up with their loved one, and the blog had become part of their daily routine, too. I like to think maybe all our hard work put a few less miles between people who love one another. I know that thousands of miles in a van created a whole new world for those of us who had the privilege to participate in this year's Southwest Adventure.



JOSH BOONE - This trip was a giant step in the right direction for CVCC. It is priceless to be able to experience such beauty and culture through a class. To me this trip was a life-changing experience in that I was able to see first hand what it was like for the Natives of the area and to hear their stories of life in the southwest. The transition for me was hiking through Canyon de Chelly. It was so peaceful, it was a paradise in the middle of the desert. Through this trip I have new respect for the Earth we live on, my family, and the Natives I met along the way. This was an awesome group of people and the food was delectable. Watching the sunset in the Grand Canyon allowed me to see what a beautiful place in which we live and what a wonderful work of art the southwest is.


NICOLE WHITENER - When people of past trips have said that this trip is life-altering, they weren't lying. After seeing the now dilapidated structures that were once thriving cities with hundreds , sometimes thousands of people in them, living and surviving off the land, realize that some of the Native Americans still partially live this way. Some still don't have running water. I will never forget this trip. Lessons I have learned on this trip can't be learned in a classroom. This was an amazing opportunity and I thank all of the instructors that helped us on this journey, all the people back home that supported us, and all the amazing friends I have made along the way.



JOHN SETZLER - What an amazing experience this has been... A group of fourteen people, ten students and four instructors, piled into a van and took off across the country into an existence of which few were familiar. The objective of this trip was to put places and faces with concepts we had studied in class. The lecture portions of "Native American History" and "Race and Ethnic Relations" were just a drop in the bucket compared with the learning experience of traveling to the southwestern United States to visit the places on our agenda. My original impression was that the learning experience would end when we arrived back in Hickory, but I was wrong. For me, the learning experience is just beginning on these subjects. I'm looking forward to pursuing a few goals I have set for myself based on these experiences I had with this group.




CHRIS REIDEL - To talk about my experiences on this trip would take a page and five lines (trust me!) if I were to talk in detail. All I can really say, though, is that my perception has changed. I greater appreciate the Native Americans, and believe that I have lost at least some of my very wrong assumptions of them. So this trip has done exactly what it was intended to do. I have learned, and changed, and would do it again in a heartbeat.



CHRISTY PEREZ - I am incredibly grateful to have been a part of this experience. I have learned a great deal about a part of history that is largely ignored by most people today, and I have seen first-hand the effects this forgotten period have had on the Native American way of life. Most importantly, this trip has allowed all of us to strip away the concerns of modern society and focus on the things that truly matter: family, community, the environment, and finding peace in everything we do. To be able to experience all of this in some of the most beautiful places on earth was a gift I would not trade for anything. When I return home, I plan to follow the advice of Mr. Chee, a history teacher at the Navajo Prep School we visited. He urged us all to live for a purpose greater than ourselves. The Southwest Adventure was the first step in a new direction for me; from now on I will strive to fill my life with beauty in my surroundings, respect for everyone I encounter, and harmony in every day that passes.


MARK HUFFMAN - Right now we are riding through the long state of Tennessee and we have been asked to make a personal statement about this trip for the blog. With 14 people and our bags in a 15 passenger fan at this point being crammed in like sardines, it's funny to me the thoughts that are in my head. I admit that I am a home body. This has been the longest time away from my family and friends. Then it dawned on me that we had formed our own special family on this trip. We have laughed, cut up, had a great time, and yes, I will admit we even got on each other's nerves like a real family. As a group, we have experienced a once in a lifetime trip. I was truly overwhelmed by all that I saw, but if I had to choose one place as my favorite site it would have to be the Loretto Chapel. Being in the beautiful chapel, for me, was truly a spiritual moment in my life. I can honestly say that I made friends for life.


AMANDA HIGGINS - Well, karma and the cosmos aligned on this one. The classroom portion of this experience has been the most educational and open that I have ever had in a formal setting. We all felt encouraged to be very respectful, but also honest with ourselves and others. We took all of that with us into the desert, and I think we were better for it. Then there's the trip itself. What a bold master of disguise. Hidden behind tales of visiting other places, is the secret that everyone finds part of themselves on this adventure.



DALE HAMILTON - Taking this course was my first step in learning a little about a nation of people I had only heard of. As it turned out, I learned a lot. Learning about the history and culture of the Southwest was fascinating, but what was even more fascinating was to experience it... the food, the culture's traditions, and most of all, the people. Listening to the guides continue their oral tradition of telling the story of their ancestors' journey, their fight for survival, and other stories of their perspective of the world, showed me how proud they are as a people; the deep respect they have for the earth, life and each other; and finally how much I, as a Jamaican, have in common with them. From interacting with the children at the Navajo Prep School, to touring Sky City at Acoma, to hiking 4 hours through Canyon de Chelly, I have come to the realization that there is much more to these Native Americans that I actually knew. This has been a wonderful learning experience that I will forever cherish.


GARY "BEAR" EKLUND - 11 days in a 15 passenger van with 14 people and 20 people's worth of luggage... Throwing into the mix is a racing towards 70 senior... could I survive? This was the most magical part of the traveling scholarship. Everyone who has been total strangers a few weeks before became kind, considerate friends. For me, this was the highlight of the adventure.


JESSICA CHILDERS - This trip has been on of the best experiences of my life. I learned so much about myself, and everything I discovered will help me through the rest of my life. I was able to share this (epic) journey with some amazing people, and I think we will all be able to learn something about the world around us.




Thanks to everyone who contributed to this blog and made it worthwhile by reading it.
Good luck to next year's Southwest Adventure!

Home Sweet Home

Amanda Higgins--Hickory, North Carolina

I must say that is very nice to be making this post from the comfort of home after spending countless hours working from hotels (or not working when the "free internet access" at our hotels was worth what we paid).

We woke up early this morning and left Clarkesville, Arkansas at 5:30 a.m. We got a few hours and a few hundered miles behind us before stopping for breakfast. After eleven days on the road, everyone was anxious to get home and the consensus was to keep stops to a minimum the rest of the day.

We finally made it back into Hickory, North Carolina and into CVCC's parking lot tonight around 8:45. We were all met by our loved ones and friends, who were as happy to see us as we were to see them. Then, we all took our final right of passage for the SouthWest Adventure...we unpacked the van one last time and threw away all the trash.

Eleven days ago we started on an incredible journey and even though we're all back home, it's not over for any of us. We have another class on Friday, final presentations, and we all have a new list of phone numbers and e-mail addresses of people we call friends.

As for this blog, John Setzler and I asked everyone to write something for our final post. Although we plan on wrapping most of it up by Monday, this has truly been an experience to last a lifetime.

Santa Fe

Amanda Higgins & John M. Setzler, Jr. - Albuquerque, New Mexico

We are having continued problems with internet access in our hotel in Albuquerque. The hotel claims to have wireless internet access, but the only place it seems to work is in the hotel lobby.

On Sunday, which is our final day of this adventure, we traveled to Santa Fe, New Mexico for the day. Our primary stop in Santa Fe was the Loretto Chapel, where we viewed the Miraculous Staircase, which appears to have been constructed with no visible support underneath. The rest of the history of this chapel will come after we arrive back in Hickory. John Setzler is writing a research paper on that subject, which will be posted here.

The Miraculous Staircase in Loretto Chapel...

The Altar at Loretto Chapel...

Local street performer "Johnny" entertains the crowd in downtown Santa Fe while our own Chris Reidel and Dale Hamilton accompany with the tambourine and dance...


Fred Bryson and Bobbie Brannon enjoy lunch on Sunday at The Burrito Cafe in downtown Santa Fe, New Mexico.

After our visit to Loretto Chapel, we took the rest of the day off to have lunch and shop in downtown Santa Fe, New Mexico.

We have an 800-mile journey back to Clarksville, Arkansas tomorrow morning, so we must get packed and get up for our 5:30 a.m. departure time. We won't be posting a blog entry from Clarksville, but we will make a final post for this project once we arrive back in Hickory.

ADDENDUM - Loretto Chapel

The Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico, was commissioned in 1872 by Jean Baptiste Lamy. Lamy was the Bishop of the Santa Fe Archdiocese at this time. Originally, the Loretto Chapel was to be named “Our Lady of Light Chapel” and would be maintained by the Sisters of Loretto. The Sisters of Loretto established themselves in Santa Fe in 1853 by opening the Academy of Our Lady of Light. In a very short time, this school grew to an attendance of over 300 students. The school covered one city block and consisted of ten buildings.

Jean Baptiste Lamy had hired architect Antoine Mouly and his son from Paris to be the architect and builders for the St. Francis Cathedral in Santa Fe. During the 10-year construction period of this cathedral, Lamy convinced the Sisters of Loretto to take advantage of the Mouly father and son architect and construction team to design and build a chapel companion to the Academy of Our Lady of Light. The Sisters decided that the school needed a chapel and raised $30,000 on their own to begin construction of the Gothic chapel in 1873. The stones for the chapel were quarried from areas around Santa Fe. The stained glass was purchase from Paris and sent to Santa Fe via ship, paddle boat, and covered wagon. The original construction of the chapel was completed in 1878.

During the construction of the Loretto Chapel, Antoine Mouly died suddenly. Only after much of the chapel construction was complete, the builders discovered that there was no staircase available to the choir loft. The small size of the chapel did not lend itself to the construction of a standard staircase, and the Sisters of Loretto did not feel comfortable with a ladder to the loft. The construction of the staircase to the loft in Loretto Chapel creates a mystery that lives to this day, and the staircase in the Loretto Chapel is still referred to as “The Miraculous Staircase.”

Legend has it that the nuns prayed for nine consecutive days for a solution to the staircase problem in the chapel. After their nine days of prayer ended, a stranger arrived at the academy. This stranger offered to build a staircase to the loft in the chapel, but he would require total privacy in order to complete the task. The stranger locked himself in the chapel for three months with nothing but primitive tools while he built a spiral staircase. Another oddity of this staircase construction is that the carpenter is not known. As soon as the construction was complete, the carpenter vanished without a trace. Another oddity of this staircase is that it was constructed without the use of nails and there is no central support. A third oddity of this construction project is that all of the wood use to build the staircase is non-native wood, and there were no witnesses to the delivery of the wood or the actual construction of the staircase. The carpenter left the site before he could be paid for the work. The Sisters of Loretto offered a reward for the identity of the carpenter, but no one ever stepped forward or provided information leading to the identity of the stranger.

The legend of the Miraculous Staircase of Loretto Chapel lives to this day, but the chapel no longer serves as a church. The chapel does allow wedding ceremonies to be performed when those arrangements are requested.

Canyon de Chelly

** Due to internet problems in the Hotel in Albuquerque, we will be revising this post on Sunday night...

AMANDA HIGGINS-ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO- Yesterday was a long day at the Grand Canyon and John Setzler and I didn't get the the blog finished until late last night. That put us not getting in the bed until about 2 a.m., and then we had to leave our hotel at 6:15 this morning. Running on about three hours of sleep, we loaded up and headed to Canyon de Chelly in Chinle, Arizona. After a four hour van ride, we got there about 10:30 a.m. We were met by Irene, a native of the canyon who now gives guided tours with her husband, Perry.

Before we hiked through Canyon de Chelly, Irene took us to a hogan and told us more about life in the canyon. As a young girl, she had lived in a similar dirt floor hogan and slept on sheepskin most of her life. Her upbringing was very traditional and she did not learn to speak English until she attended school. She also told us about the roles of men and women in the traditional community and how they have changed in her lifetime.

About noon, her husband Perry returned from his morning tour to guide us back down the canyon. We started with a 600 feet descent to the canyon floor. There, Perry showed us what is known as White House Ruins. These ancient cave dwellings got their name from the white wash used on their exteriors. Midway through the 5 and a half mile hike, we stopped to rest. Irene brought us some fresh, cold water and told us more about the history of the canyon.

Canyon de Chelly was once home to Hopi, Zuni, and Navajo tribes after a severe drought forced them to migrate from their previous homes. Spaniards moved into Mexico and then New Mexico and Arizona encountering the ancient people. The Spanish kidnapped many Native American women and used them as slaves. In addition, they burned the natives' hogans and corn fields.

In 1805, Navajo women, children, and elders were hiding in the canyon while the young males were hunting. As the Spaniards passed the hidden Navajos, one woman who had been held captive and escaped could not contain herself. She yelled at the intruders in Spanish, giving away the whereabouts of her people. The result was pure carnage, but in the chaos a grandfather placed his small grandson in a crevice and covered him with a dead body. That child was the only survivor of the massacre and was able to pass along the story.

By the late 1800s, the United States had set up territories throughout the southwest and was forcing the native peoples off their land. Over 9,000 Navajos were relocated to Fort Defiance, Fort Wingate, and Fort Sumter, where they relied upon the government for food and support. By 1861, the United States was engaged in a Civil War and no longer able to send supplies to the captives. In 1868, the government signed a treaty with the Navajos and released them back to their homelands, including Canyon de Chelly.

After resting for a few minutes and hearing Irene's stories, we headed back through the canyon. Within a few minutes, we had reached the riverbed. We all took off our socks and shoes, and enjoyed the feel of the cool water and mud for about a mile. Then, it was time to put our shoes back on and make the 250 feet ascent back up the canyon. That last leg was the toughest and victory was sweet when we finally reached the top. After over five hours of hiking, we were actually glad to all pile back into the van.

The day was far from over, after a quick dinner in Chinle, Arizona, we had a three hour drive to Albuquerque that turned into four hours due to a traffic accident on the highway. We finally reached our hotel about midnight tonight.

Tomorrow marks another long day. We are going to Santa Fe to visit Glorieta Pass, Bandalier, and Loretto Chapel. The rest of the day is ours and we plan to shop until we drop.

Friday

Amanda Higgins / John M. Setzler, Jr. - Tuba City, Arizona

Some say that a photo is worth a thousand words. If that's true, here is a novel of photos.

Navajo Preparatory School

This morning we left the hotel about 8:15 and headed to the Navajo Preparatory School. The school is in Farmington, New Mexico so we got there about 8:45.

The Navajo Preparatory School is a boarding school for grades 9-12. It is the only Native American Preparatory school in the United States. Most students are bussed in on Mondays and go back home for the weekend. Some live close enough to stay at home, but over 90% live at the school.

We were greeted by John Tohtsoni, the Dean of Instruction, who signed us in at the office and then we were given a short tour by Andrew Sarracino, a senior at the school. He explained that when the school began, it was sponsored by the United Methodist Church, but now it is funded by grants and private contributions. After his introduction, he guided us to the classroom of Mr. Tom Chee, where we got to sit in on a couple of his classes. He explained just how much the Navajo educational system has changed in his lifetime. Mr. Chee had also been sent to a boarding school when he was a young boy. There, he was forbidden from practicing his culture's traditions, and was physically punished for speaking his native Navajo language. After many years of angst and resentment, Mr. Chee was able to make peace with his past and forgive his oppressors. Now, he works to maintain balance between the old and new way of life. He explained that now, due to decades of assimilation, many Navajo children have lost their connection with their heritage. Many do not speak the Navajo language or practice any traditional customs. Mr. Chee, and the other faculty at the prep school are working to change all of that. While the school offers a standard curriculum, it also requires students to take courses in Navajo language, government, and history. Rather than pushing students to get an education and leave the reservation, the school encourages them to bring their knowledge back to benefit the community. Most of the students we spoke with planned on doing just that, returning to their homes after college. They admitted, however, that often jobs in their field of choice would not be available and they would have to move in order to pursue their careers.

After all this serious discussion, it was time to change gears and socialize. The students prepared a traditional Navajo meal for us that included mutton stew, blue corn mush, grilled lamb, and fry bread. Everything was delicious and we promised if they ever visit North Carolina, we'll fry them some chicken and green tomatoes.

Students of the Navajo Prep School in Farmington, New Mexico prepare lunch for students and our group on Thursday....

Navajo Prep School senior Toni Dee assists Josh Boone in the art of making Navajo fry bread on Thursday afternoon..

With our bellies full, we were invited into the school's hogan. A hogan is similar to a kiva, but is built above ground. We all sat in a circle with the students, while Armando Bennett and Cody Yazzie sang traditional songs and told stories that had been passed down to them for generations. We then left the hogan and went outside to a grassy commons area, where we were able to participate in a couple of traditional dances.

Navajo Prep School freshman Cody Yazzie (left) and sophomore Armando Bennett perform a Native Navajo song called "Song and Dance Romance" in the Hogan on the campus of the Navajo Prep School in Farmington, New Mexico on Thursday afternoon..

Armando Bennett (right) explains the workings of his drum to (from left) Gary "Bear" Ecklund, Claudia Eller, Amanda Higgins, and Bobbie Brannon..

For our final stop at the school, we met with Betty O'Jaye, the Executive director of the school. She gave us some more information about the history of the school and spoke with us about our interest in Native American culture. We presented the school with a group photo that we had made at CVCC prior to our leaving.

Betty O'Jaye, administrator of the Navajo Prep School in Farmington, New Mexico, takes a few minutes from her day to discuss the rich history of the school with members of the CVCC Southwest Adventure...

We found our visit to the Navajo Preparatory School to be overwhelming, and the full impact is still being discussed. We may come back to this blog in the near future with some additional thoughts on our experiences.

CVCC's Fred Bryson makes a phone call home while viewing the magic of Monument Valley in Southern Utah on Thursday afternoon...

On our way to Tuba City, Arizona, we took a brief detour to see Monument Valley in southern Utah.

We are staying in Tuba City, Arizona for the next two nights. We'll be going to the Grand Canyon tomorrow and plan on being there for sunset.

Mesa Verde & Four Corners

On Wednesday, the CVCC Southwest Adventure group visited the Spruce Tree House cave dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado...

AMANDA HIGGINS - FARMINGTON, NM - We got to sleep in a little later this morning and didn't leave the hotel until about 9 a.m. We then made the nearly three hour trip to Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado.

Nicole Whitener climbs into a kiva at Spruce Tree House at Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado...

Around 1400 years ago a group of people living in the Four Corners region chose to settle in Mesa Verde. They built elaborate cliff dwellings where they thrived for nearly 700 years, until they moved in the late 1200's. Today, Mesa Verde National Park serves to preserve what is left of this ancient culture.

Josh Boone, Claudia Eller, and Dale Hamilton explore the cave dwellings of Spruce Tree House at Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado...

We arrived at the park around 11:30 a.m. after a very curvy, but scenic drive up a mountain. By the time we go into the park, tickets were sold out for a guided tour. Sounds lousy, but it worked out great! We were able to explore at our leisure and really take in our surroundings. The cliff dwellings were partially roped off, but we were able get very close and even go inside of some. We got to use the same grinding stones that the ancient people had used to grind corn and other grain. A group of us went down into a kiva together, we all held hands and had a moment of silence. Then, Claudia Eller, Chris Reidel, Jessica Childers, and I took a trail to look for petroglyphs. The terrain got pretty rugged and we were running out of time, so we decided to just turn back. On our way back down the trail, we all stopped and just sat down. Not because we were tired, or lazy, but because we could. We sat there silent and tried to imagine the way it would have been long ago, when there was still residents in the cave dwellings. We thought of the peace and ease they must have felt, being in such a beautiful place and surrounded by such wondrous landscapes. Then, through the silence, wind rushed over the trees and whistled throughout the mesa. We just looked at each other and smiled. We didn't find any petroglyphs today, but we found a little peace... a moment where we could just be.

The marker at Four-Corners indicates the exact spot where the states of Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico meet on the map...

After Mesa Verde, we went to the Four Corners Monument. This site is where Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah meet. It has the distinction of being the only place in the United States where you can stand in four states at one time. There is also a Navajo and Hopi open air market, where local Native Americans sell their goods to tourists. Most of the items for sale were handcrafted by the vendors and their families. We all enjoyed shopping for ourselves and our loved ones back home, while helping to support the local people.

Dale Hamilton and Christy Perez explore the Four-Corners monument while Richard Eller shoots video. The Four-Corners Monument is the location where Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah meet...

The day was not over after we got back to the hotel around 7:3o this evening. We all had to load back into the van, with our clothes. Our destination? A laundromat. We all had to pack light and today marked the halfway point of our trip, so we were all running low on clean clothes... just another part of the adventure.

Tomorrow, we will be visiting a Navajo Prep School before we leave Farmington, New Mexico for two nights in Tuba City, Arizona.

Aztec Ruins and Chaco Canyon

Members of the CVCC Southwest Adventure explore the kivas and architecture of the Aztec Ruins...

AMANDA HIGGINS - FARMINGTON, NM - We started our day with a continental breakfast at the hotel and then left out about 8:15 a.m. for Aztec, NM.

Aztec Ruins National Monument was established in 1923 and covers 320 acres. Early European settlers wrongfully assumed the people responsible for the structures were the Aztecs from Mexico. Actually, they were most probably descendants of the ancient Anasazi. The most accepted explanation for their disappearance is a severe drought from 1276-1299 which would have forced the people to migrate.

Years after the community was abandoned, thieves broke into the homes, destroyed the architecture, and pillaged precious artifacts. However, archaeologist Earl Morris was able to rebuild many of the structures. In 1921, he excavated the Great Kiva and then reconstructed it in 1934. Most archaeologist agree the kiva was a public building used by the entire community for ceremonial functions.

Inside the park, we were able to visit a museum on the history of the area and we also watched a film on the ruins. After the movie, we were free to explore the sites and we were all impressed at the quality craftsmanship. Without modern tools or equipment, these ancient people created a community which is still partially standing after thousands of years. I thought of a birdhouse I built in the third grade. It fell apart after the first good rain.

Inside the reconstructed Great Kiva was dimly lit and filled with ambient music of Native American chants. As I walked around inside the building, I felt overcome by a sense of connectivity. Although I don't consider myself to be very religious, the kiva provided me with a very spiritual experience. As I sat inside, I thought of all those who had came before me and all those who would come after. I bowed my head and said a silent prayer of thanks for the opportunity to be a part of such an awe-inspiring experience.

JOHN M. SETZLER, JR. - FARMINGTON, NM - After our visit to the Aztec ruins, we loaded back into our van that has become our second home and drove toward Chaco Canyon in New Mexico. In North Carolina, we often talk about things and places being "out in the country." The trip to Chaco Canyon gives a completely new meaning to that phrase. We drove and we drove some more. Every window in the van showed views of flat and desolate landscapes dotted with scrub brush, tumbleweeds, with occasional mesas and buttes. Occasional sights of wild horses and elk brightened the scenery during the drive. When we finally reached the end of the paved road, we followed a washboard dirt road for the final 20 miles into Chaco Canyon.

When we finally arrived at the Chaco Culture Visitor's Center, our back sides were numb from the ride. We unloaded from the van and took a short hike to the Pueblo Bonito ruins. The architecture in Chaco Canyon thrived from 850 to 1250 A.D. before the San Juan River dried up, forcing the Chacoans to relocate. The 1,200 year-old remnants of their culture still dot the landscape within the canyon.

Standing inside of Native American homes that pre-date us by over 1,000 years is a moving experience. Closing my eyes allowed me to imagine the sounds, sights, and smells of the vanished culture that once inhabited these walls. I could imagine the underground kivas being occupied by adults and elders who smoked, prayed, and chanted during their religious activities of the day. I could also imagine the thriving prosperity that once filled the basin of Chaco Canyon. The San Juan River provided the source of sustenance for a community of over 5,000 inhabitants of the canyon. Chaco Canyon is now devoid of permanent human life, but in 2000, a herd of elk migrated into the park and have taken up permanent residence.

After completing our studies of the Chaco architecture, we re-traced our path down the washboard dirt road towards civilization. When we finally reached the pavement, we decided that we had enough extra time to make an excursion to Durango, Colorado, which is about one hour north of Farmington, New Mexico.

The only promise required to get our group to agree to a few additional hours on the road was a visit to the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory in historical downtown Durango. $17 per pound chocolate was no deterrent to this group of road-weary travelers. In fact, it was worth every dollar we spent!

Tomorrow's adventures include a trip to Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado as well as the Four-Corners Monument.

Until tomorrow...

Petroglyphs and Sky City

AMANDA HIGGINS - FARMINGTON, NM - Today marked the first day not spent entirely in the van. We left the hotel at about 8 o'clock this morning. It was a brisk 46 degrees, but we had blue skies all the way.

Our first stop was Petroglyph National Monument, which was just a short ride from our hotel. Petroglyph National Monument is just a few miles northwest of Albuquerque. It was created 150,000 years ago by lava flows from volcanic eruptions. Thousands of years later, ancient peoples discovered that chipping away at the stones would leave a lasting mark. The result is more than 20,000 images etched in stone. They vary greatly in content and some may be as much as 2,000-3,000 years old.


At the monument trailhead in Boca Negra Canyon, we were greeted by a sign warning of the dangers of rattlesnakes. Although initially surprised that we might encounter one of the creatures, we were relieved to read that the snakes would not attack unless cornered. No problem. We didn't plan on cornering any rattlesnakes. We then began our hike in in the canyon. We were careful not to disturb anything, since preservation of such landmarks depends upon the respect of those who visit them. Instead of concentrating on what we were not allowed to do, we focused on the energy of this amazing area. "I found the petroglyphs interesting. It was fascinating to see what was significant enough to write down." "It's much more than I expected", said Dale Hamilton with wide eyes. Later, I asked Jessica Childers what she thought, "It's unlike anything I've ever seen. There's nothing I can even compare it to." Well said Jessica. Well said.


After our visit to Petryglyph National Mounument, we loaded back into our van and made the 90-minute drive to Sky City.


Sky City has been the physical and spiritual home to the Acoma people for nearly 2,000 years. It is the oldest continously inhabited community in North America. It has over 300 structures made of adobe and white sandstone. Most are family homes and in Acoma tradition, females own the homes and the land. There is also a 21,000 square foot church called Saint Esteban del Rey Mission, built after Spaniards brough Catholicism to the Acoma people. Today there are only 30 full-time residents of Sky City, but Acoma people still travel there in order to sell their crafts and pottery to tourists. They also make the treck up the mesa in order to celebrate time-honored traditions, which include a combination of Catholic and native religions.

Located within the village is the Sky City Cultural Center, which focused on the preservation of the Acoma history. Since the Acoma people do not have a written language, it is important to pass along information from one generartion to the next. The center helps ensure that future Acoma, as well as outsiders, will have an understanding and connection to the culture.


Sky City has no running water or electricity. Many Acoma still live in the same manner as their ancient ancestors. Bread and other goods are still baked in adobe ovens, water is still hand-collected from cisterns, and outhouses are still in everyone's backyard. I asked Mark Huffman what he thought of the city and the people. He said, "To me this a once in a lifetime moment to marvel at the achievements and what these people have done in their lives with no modern conviences". It occurred to me that could be the theme for our trip... once-in-a-lifetime moments to marvel.

Today's adventures gave us glimpes into American history that pre-dates the arrival of Christopher Columbus. Throughout our own educations, most of us have only read about these subjects in textbooks. Today, we got to look, touch, taste, smell, and feel lifestyles that pre-date Eurpoean arrival into the North American continent. These adventures will continue tomorrow with visits to the Aztec Ruins and Chaco Canyon.

On The Road Again

Gary "Bear" Eckland views the vast expanse of the Texas landscape from a rest stop viewing area along interstate 40 in the Texas panhandle on Sunday afternoon (photo by John M. Setzler, Jr.)

AMANDA HIGGINS - ALBUQUERQUE, NM - Thank goodness this day is over, or at least near over. Today marked our second day in the sardine can van and it actually went more smoothly than expected. After yesterday, we were all pros at loading and unloading in the van, making the whole process easier. We left Clarkesville, AR about 6:45 this morning and got on the road again. Everyone was ready to put some miles behind us, so we stopped as little as possible. We passed the time by singing. Some of us sang pretty well and have real talent, some of us just sang loud and shouldn't quit our day jobs any time soon.

Our one luxury stop was at a welcome center in Texas, where we paused to snap some pictures and take in the scenery. Recent rains have caused the desert flowers to bloom and the landscape is alive with color.

Hours later, and we're finally at our hotel in Albuquerque, NM and hoping to get in the jacuzzi to unwind from another long day. Tomorrow will be our first day of not driving all day, and we are all looking forward to seeing some sites without having to look through the van window. We're going to Petroglyph National Monument and then to Acoma Pueblo after a 6:30 AM wake-up call and a hotelquick continental breakfast.

After tomorrow's adventures, it's back in the van and off to Farmington, NM and our third hotel of this journey. I'm looking forward to writing about something (anything) besides driving.

We'll post another update tommorow!

First Day on the Road

AMANDA HIGGINS- CLARKESVILLE, AR- The gang all met up at CVCC at about 5 o'clock this morning. Although limited to one backpack and one duffel each, the luggage seemed like to much cargo for one van. After some serious soul-searching, Mark decided to part with his case of Sundrop. (The delicious beverage is a local drink and not available outside the southeast.) Next came a ton of pictures, goodbyes to family, and promises to call everyday. Finally after cramming 14 people and all our stuff into the van, we pulled out about 6am.

Pure adrenaline and little sleep made for a loud van ride the first couple of hours, then we stopped near Newport, TN for breakfast. After loading back up, we drove on until the rain and adrenaline fianlly subsided outside Memphis. Anticipation rose as we neared the Mississippi River. I have crossed the river several times myself, but the magnitude of it still impressed me. What impressed me more was how few of the group had ever crossed the river. Most said crossing the mighty water marked the farthest west they had traveled. This is a picture John shot from the van as we crossed the bridge.

Many miles and several hours later, we finally got to our hotel about 10pm. It's a Days Inn in Clarksville, AR and not too shabby for a discount hotel. John had a few technical difficulties with his computer that caused a delay in the post. Thankfully, Jessica brought her laptop and so I am using it to write this blog and John was able to send his picture to the Hickory Daily Record.

Well, it's after midnight and it's been a LONG day. We are all ready to crash and we have to be ready to leave by 6 o'clock in the morning. It's another day's worth of driving til we reach Albuquerque tomorrow night, until then...