AMANDA HIGGINS-ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO- Yesterday was a long day at the Grand Canyon and John Setzler and I didn't get the the blog finished until late last night. That put us not getting in the bed until about 2 a.m., and then we had to leave our hotel at 6:15 this morning. Running on about three hours of sleep, we loaded up and headed to Canyon de Chelly in Chinle, Arizona. After a four hour van ride, we got there about 10:30 a.m. We were met by Irene, a native of the canyon who now gives guided tours with her husband, Perry.
Before we hiked through Canyon de Chelly, Irene took us to a hogan and told us more about life in the canyon. As a young girl, she had lived in a similar dirt floor hogan and slept on sheepskin most of her life. Her upbringing was very traditional and she did not learn to speak English until she attended school. She also told us about the roles of men and women in the traditional community and how they have changed in her lifetime.
About noon, her husband Perry returned from his morning tour to guide us back down the canyon. We started with a 600 feet descent to the canyon floor. There, Perry showed us what is known as White House Ruins. These ancient cave dwellings got their name from the white wash used on their exteriors. Midway through the 5 and a half mile hike, we stopped to rest. Irene brought us some fresh, cold water and told us more about the history of the canyon.
Canyon de Chelly was once home to Hopi, Zuni, and Navajo tribes after a severe drought forced them to migrate from their previous homes. Spaniards moved into Mexico and then New Mexico and Arizona encountering the ancient people. The Spanish kidnapped many Native American women and used them as slaves. In addition, they burned the natives' hogans and corn fields.
In 1805, Navajo women, children, and elders were hiding in the canyon while the young males were hunting. As the Spaniards passed the hidden Navajos, one woman who had been held captive and escaped could not contain herself. She yelled at the intruders in Spanish, giving away the whereabouts of her people. The result was pure carnage, but in the chaos a grandfather placed his small grandson in a crevice and covered him with a dead body. That child was the only survivor of the massacre and was able to pass along the story.
By the late 1800s, the United States had set up territories throughout the southwest and was forcing the native peoples off their land. Over 9,000 Navajos were relocated to Fort Defiance, Fort Wingate, and Fort Sumter, where they relied upon the government for food and support. By 1861, the United States was engaged in a Civil War and no longer able to send supplies to the captives. In 1868, the government signed a treaty with the Navajos and released them back to their homelands, including Canyon de Chelly.
After resting for a few minutes and hearing Irene's stories, we headed back through the canyon. Within a few minutes, we had reached the riverbed. We all took off our socks and shoes, and enjoyed the feel of the cool water and mud for about a mile. Then, it was time to put our shoes back on and make the 250 feet ascent back up the canyon. That last leg was the toughest and victory was sweet when we finally reached the top. After over five hours of hiking, we were actually glad to all pile back into the van.
The day was far from over, after a quick dinner in Chinle, Arizona, we had a three hour drive to Albuquerque that turned into four hours due to a traffic accident on the highway. We finally reached our hotel about midnight tonight.
Tomorrow marks another long day. We are going to Santa Fe to visit Glorieta Pass, Bandalier, and Loretto Chapel. The rest of the day is ours and we plan to shop until we drop.
2 comments:
A weh yuh a look pon so. Mine yuh yeye drop outta yuh head. Yuh put yuh foot inns di dutty wata. Lawd a massi.
Mi figat fi tell yuh seh mek sure yuh tek nuff picha, cause mi waan fi si ebry weh whe yuh go. Suh hopefully Wednesday mi get dem. Zeen. Aright.
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